|
Its all fine until you need it.When we have guest that comes to us wanting to learn how to use these skills I recommend they read this book before they spend the day with us. Gravity plays for keeps and when something bad starts and gravity takes over, its hard to stop. If you are going out climbing, the knowledge in this book is no optional. Going climbing without understanding the basics of self rescue is like driving without a seat belt. I own Sylvan Rocks Climbing School here in the Black Hills of South Dakota. I see more epics (with other parties) then I care to admit. When it does stop, if you know how to pick up the pieces and use the knowledge offered up in this book, you will greatly improve your chances of getting yourself and your partner down safely.Sending your project climb is perhaps more fun, but taking the time to read and practice the techniques laid out in these pages is essential knowledge.
Must read if you take climbing seriously. It's a book to have in your bag and in your head.
Nice mix of photos/illustrations. The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book. It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing. Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots. Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises.
Easy to follow diagrams/instructions. Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions). This book has been just right for me. I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch. I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue).
Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically.
I think it's more applicable to multipitch climbs, however the techniques are applicable to rappelling as well.Don't expect to read it and know how to traverse a knot while rappelling. Ok, I'm fairly new to outdoor climbing, and if I got into some of the situations described here, I would just hang on the rope and scream like a little girl until someone more experienced told me what to do.That said, if you're willing to spend several hours practicing the techniques, this book will boost your confidence considerably. Until you try the techniques a few times and get familiar, you shouldn't trust them while on the rock.
If you're a male expect to roll your eyes a lot. I suppose using exclusionary language is an attempt at revenge but in the case of all the rescues it suggests women spend a lot of time needing rescue. oh well, thats climbers for ya. This book does a great job of teaching all the minimalist tricks climbers use to complete the tasks industrial rope workers would use mechanical devices for.While most of the information will be familiar to experienced rope workers there are a few bits of information which are real gems. It belongs on every climbers/rat's bookshelf for this reason.Criticisms: 1) The illustrations are great, the pictures are useless and as a result some knot techniques are indecipherable.2) There are many scenarios used to hone your skills, seems more like filler.3) On a artistic note the reverse gender specific format is so contrived and over the top that by the time I was finished the book I was sick of the authors sexism. Also there was some unprofessional jargon, such as differentiating anchors as being "bomber" or not.
|
